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Mark is a 35 year old, ginger-haired and now fortunately balding, village club cricket player. An opening inswing bowler that doesn't swing it any longer. He wrote a Blog two years ago when preparing for a game a cricket on the flanks of Mt Everest and was told to carry on writing it.

Tuesday 24 March 2009

Small Pub, Big World

I was having a diet, bio-power, nutro-Carling last Friday in my local and was speaking to our new landlord, Ray, when he slapped his forehead mid-sentence and ran off in the other direction.
>I had showered.
>>I had brushed my teeth before going to the pub.
>>>My body odour is usually not too unpleasant but I do sometimes have a spittle issue when talking to people in an enclosed space; it's like a defence mechanism - a warning to other tiddly people in uncomfortably loud and close environments not to get to close and that it's their round. Ray came back and pushed a small business card in my hand.

On one side was a hand-written note - "To Mark Waters - wishing you luck and thanks very much". One the flip-side was a smart livery in instantly recognisable colours with the name John Hooper CBE embossed on it - Chairman of the Lord's Taverners. I was speechless. Small world doesn't come close and having been a regular in the Red Lion for years I was unaware that John had been in before. Apparently he had seen my poster in the pub and realised that a member of the team going up Everest to raise money for the Lord's Taveners actually lived in the small Hertfordshire village he was enjoying a pie and a pint in. Amazing and if you ever read this John, many thanks for your encouragement.

The evening carried on as I was getting into my training a little more and a good friend of mine came in with a group of his mates. Introductions were made and conversation started to organically grow as the evening moved on. Everest was mentioned; the story unfolded and it turned out that the person I was talking with was George Powell's sister (George is the official photographer on the expedition) - my training had gone rather well up to that point and I have to admit that I have forgotten her name - sorry George and sorry George's sister. Apart from the fact that the evening had just taken another Twilight Zone twist and that it really was too coincidental to believe at the time; she also knew about everything I was talking about. The Fantasy Farm Challenge, the Bath Half, the pain, .....................the lot.

It had turned out to be a very strange but hugely enjoyable evening. I was reluctant to leave but I think I had had enough training for a Friday night.

Next Saturday is the last get-together for the group before the final rundown to the 9th. It is seriously amazing that we have reached this stage now. When I'm asked when I am off it is staggering to hear myself say that we are off in about 2 weeks. Quite a bit to do still. North Face need to see me again in Covent Garden after my lengthy visit last Saturday; which I am sure they are looking forward to. I must say that the service I received from the staff at North Face was superb and nothing was too much trouble - I probably monopolised about 6 people's time for over an hour - me, me, me. They genuinely wanted me to walk out with gear that will see me right and that I can use after our return; apart from the Bacofoil jacket that made me look like an extra that gets shot and falls from a high level walkway, whilst executing a perfect triple-salco, from a rubbish Bond Film. They realised that this stuff is a considerable investment and will make the trip far more enjoyable. Anyway, apparently I look the nuts in my Tangerine Himalayan jacket (which surprisingly blends in with my hair) and my red and green Campri strides and my blue, lobster fisherman's jumper ............................. hiddeous but practical. Like a walking flare...........................................................joke by the way. Although my Nuptse jacket isn't "bright" bright; I don't think there will be any chance of me not being seen by satellites, either.
Big thanks again to Dave C for setting this arrangement up.

The next few weeks will fly past and I reckon that will be the same whilst we are out in Nepal. I've got to remember to occasionally stop and "smell the flowers" while we are out there as it will be over all too quickly.

A good friend who has completed the trek has also given a small insight about what to expect - the stars in the evening, the unbelievable views and the people were high up on his list of things to experience and get under the skin of. This will carry you over the hard work. I'm sure it will.
I have cut'n'pasted his email as I think with a venture like this every little helps.
Weather:
The weather when I was there was perfect - not a cloud (we were above most of them!). Check the internet but the best times for the trek tend to be UK spring and Autumn - that's when the summit attempts tend to take place as the weather is best. You should be prepared for wet weather though, and just like UK winters, if the weather is good it can often mean it is colder than if there are clouds about.

Clothing:
My advice is layers! It's really really cold at night and in the morning (up to -25). Get yourself some good thermal underlayers for a start. Then non-cotton t-shirts (available from most trekking shops) as they are warm but dont stay wet (as you will undoubtedly get a sweat on with all that walking!) Next layer should be micro-fleeces. They are really light, easy to dry and full zips at the front make it easiest to adjust temperature. Finally, waterproof clothes are a must (coat, trousers and socks). Even if it isn't raining, they are a really good barrier against any wind or moisture and you will be staying in cabins with no heating. Hats, sunglasses, gloves and a scarf are all a must as well. Really try to avoid taking ski jackets or salopettes as they are too big and heavy and you'll get too hot as you walk in the daytime sunshine!

Footwear:
It's really important to get a pair of walking boots which cover your ankles. Some people will tell you that you could walk to base camp in trainers - which is true. But no.1 trainers aren't waterproof, and no.2 any slip on the way and you really risk hurting your ankles (hence the importance that they are covered!) It is also really important that your footwear is waterproof (for obvious reasons). My final piece of advise is to go to boots and get 'Compeed' blister plasters. If your shoes give you blisters (like mine did!) put the Compeed on the night before you walk - it will last for days and should stop you getting blisters in the first place! I wouldnt have made it without Compeed!!

Accessories:
Trekking poles are also a must and really help (particularly on the way down). A head torch is a really good idea as although you should never be walking too far at night, it is a key piece of kit. Also, get some iodine drops to purify water and anti-bacterial hand cleanser. Other than that, survival basics like a pen-knife, lighter, compass, whistle etc are a good idea. You should never have to use them, but it can't hurt to have them with you (and cause amazement among any Nepali children that you see along the way!)

How hard is it:
The short answer is very hard. I assume your trek will be around 15 days. The best way to prepare is to do what your doing. Go walking for long distances and take a heavy pack on your shoulders. In reality, porters will probably carry most of your gear, but without altitude to train at, a heavy pack is a good way to condition yourself.

Altitude :
As for altitude, you will certainly feel it! It is a very strange sensation, and can be panicky at night when your breathing really slows and you wake up gasping. The thing to remember is that it is normal to feel the altitude but to make sure that you are aware of the symptoms of altitude sickness. The fact is that you will get many of those symptoms to some degree or another (tired, headache etc), but it is when these symptoms are severe that it is dangerous. Key things to help you are:

1. Go slowly - I can't emphasise that enough - every breath you take at a lower altitude on the way up will help you to acclimatise. Don't feel pressured to walk anywhere fast. The slower you go, the better your chances will be!

2. Trek high, sleep low - This is followed in the Himalayas almost always, try to sleep lower than your maximum altitude each day

3. 300m a day - Try not to exceed climbing more than 300m a day in terms of sleeping locations

4. Keep your guide informed - If you don't feel great, let your guide know. They will all be well versed in the symptoms of AMS, but it can't hurt to have a professional watching your back

5. Diamox - Really controversial one this. You can buy it in almost any Kathmandu pharmacy and, as you probably know, it is designed to combat AMS. The key is, never self prescribe it! Have it with you, but if you need to take it, that should mean end of trek and descend. If you feel that bad, let your guide know, tell him that you want to take Diamox and get his opinion. If you take it too soon, it won't work, and if you get worse, it will have no effect.

I don't know anyone who hasn't suffered from the altitude (apart from the Sherpas!) You will feel it and parts of the trek will be very hard - but the end goal is worth it! :-)

How to get the most out of it:
It still is the most amazing place I've been or thing I have done. Much more enjoyable than Kilimanjaro or any other trek! The landscapes that you go through are breathtaking, from rivers and villages near Lukla, to the rocks above the treeline. The people that live there are by and large buddhist, and you will see the 'eyes of the buddha' looking at you from the 'Stupas' along the way. The mountain views are amazing and the stars are breathtaking. As hard as the trek can be at times, especially the altitude, the scenery is astonishing and certainly adds motivation when it gets tough.

As for the people, the sherpas are great. Really fun and unbelievalbe climbers (all about 5 foot and will overtake you on the route with fridges on thier head - literally fridges!) A deck of cards is often a good idea as the Sherpas love to learn games etc.

All in all I'm jealous! You'll have an amazing time! Nepal is a great country and the trek is phenomenal. Good luck and good luck with the record (I think a shortened run up might be an idea!)

Apologies if I have rambled too much above!
>That's OK James.

Keep you posted.

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